Friday dawned bright and sunny, the warmest day of the trip
so far.
We pulled ourselves together to get to the Invalides to see
an exhibit on the U.S. entry into World War I (this spring is the 100th anniversary of that event). We did eventually find the exhibit but spent more time
in the Museum de Plans Reliefs – mockups of the physical layout of French
forts, mostly naval, for cities such as Toulon, Bayonne and Perpignan from the
16th to 19th centuries.
The plans were very well lit and
displayed and very interesting to those versed in military history but might
not be too thrilling to others. I liked it.
Then we quickly took in the US exhibit and went to the Dome
de Invalides, where we saw Napoleon’s tomb under the spectacular Dome built by
Louis XIV.
The dome from below.
Other French military greats, such as Foch, Turenne, Lyautey and Vauban are
also buried there.
Turenne
Lyautey
One charming touch, to me, was that buried near Napoleon are two of his real friends: Duroc, Duc de Frioul, his Grand Master of the Palace who died in battle in Germany in 1813 next to Napoleon; and Bertrand, who replaced Duroc and had been an aide de camp, engineer and corps commander and stayed with Napoleon on St. Helena until his death. Foch and Vauban they were not, but to Napoleon they mattered more than most.
Bertrand
Duroc (and a companion)
Dome from outside
It’s an impressive sight and a must for any visitor.
After a rest in the formal garden, Jardin d’Intendant,
outside the dome, which was glistening in the bright sunlight, we went from armies to architecture but not before I had my picture taken in the garden.
I suggested a
stroll through the 7th Arrondissement to a spectacular Art Nouveau building,
29 Avenue Rapp. The walk was pleasant, though we noted the extra security outside
the Syrian cultural center.
The building, well, just look at the pictures. I adore Art
Nouveau and this is an amazing, almost inspiring building. Jules Lavirotte, the architect, had a very
creative mind. Or was nuts. Also had sex on his mind. A lot. I love buildings
like that and would love to live in one.
The ground floor
apartment had a rather brassy cat that liked to sit in the flower box. As you
can see.
We strolled past
the Bulgarian Embassy and a striking Russian Orthodox church, crossed the Pont
Alma and took the Metro back to St. Paul, a short walk from our flat. We enjoyed
coffee and a Ricard at a small café near the Metro and walked back to get ready
for dinner.
Dinner was at Moisonnier,
a Lyonnais-style bistro just over the Seine in the 5th. It was spectacular.
I enjoyed a well-made
kir to start, with a companion choosing a glass of Coteaux de Layon, the
wonderful sweet wine from the Loire. Our water for the night was Badoit
(sparkling) and the bread was a dynamite baguette. Wine was the house Fleurie,
perfectly refreshing with the hearty food.
For firsts, my
companions enjoyed a salad perfectly dressed with Comte cheese on top, a
generous course. I had eggs in an amazingly rich and savory red wine sauce with
lardons and mushrooms. I mopped up every bit of the sauce with the bread. This
dish was so good my companions ordered one for themselves to split!
Mains: one
companion enjoyed tablier de sapeur, beef tripe breaded and served with sauce
gribiche, kind of French tartar sauce, was tender and luscious. My other friend
enjoyed monkfish in a rich tomato sauce drenched in tarragon. I had a magnificent
veal kidney, cooked just right (pinkish rare) in a spectacularly perfect,
well-balanced mustard sauce. With these came a terrific scalloped potato dish
and boiled potatoes.
Desserts were, for
one friend, a glass of really really really good Poire William eau de vie; I
enjoyed a crème brulee flavored with the fortified wine Macvin de Jura, the
best such dish in a while, with coffee and Armagnac to follow, and my other friend
had prune ice cream topped with Armagnac my my my.
Service from the
patroness was warm and friendly and efficient. The small and quiet place was
all French people except the table of Americans next to us. The chef greeted us
on the way out.
Bill for 3, 216
euros. Highest recommendation. Would be good for a romantic dinner.
We waddled home, fully sated, and
enjoyed a nightcap of Lillet rose along the Seine.
The view from the Pont de Sully towards Notre Dame (right) after dinner.
An awesome Parisian
day.
Moisonnier
28 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005 Paris
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